
As life moves on things change and what was once important seems to drift away into memories. Surfing, such as big part of my life for so many years is one such thing that was put on the back-burner for a number of reasons: career, travel, family. Your close friends stop surfing, get married, move away or find other paths and you all loose touch with what you once held so dear. After what seems like an age out of the water and with a change of focus this year I was determined to get back into the surf. The boards where pulled out from under the house and a new coat of wax applied. The wait began for offshore winds and a good swell.

Anniversary weekend finally saw the right conditions hit the west coast. With the car loaded I set off to the coast feeling a little apprehensive after being at least four years out of the water. I wondered if it would be too big or even if I could get out the back with limited paddle fitness. I figured if I could get out and catch three waves I’d be doing alright. The drive down the hill overlooking Maori Bay clearly showed the swell was solid. Clean lines packed up a long way out…not too big though. So down the track to the beach and out.

That first surf was physically tough. A few beatings and rubber arms that didn’t last more than an hour. Mentally though, it was a bit of a wake up call, what had I been doing all those years out of the water? I forgot the peace of mind you get sitting out back waiting for the next set. The scenery looking back on to the beach, the gannets riding the up draft from the waves. Total escapism and I still struggle to find a comparable pursuit that gives as much as surfing does.
I spent the rest of that week chasing a diminishing swell, surfing every day and regaining paddle fitness and not “kooking” out so often. Slowly getting back the connection with the coast and waves. Life is a big road trip, you’ve got to make sure you keep what is dear to you foremost and don’t get lost. It has been said before the only a surfer knows the feeling, make sure you don’t forget that feeling.
Pics: Nikon D300, 300mm F2.8 VR, 1.7TC